Welcome back to the Hurrication QAL!
This weeks' post is a short one. I had a few questions throughout the week, so I wanted to address them here in case you also have a similar question.
Let's get started. :)
Starching Fabric
I was asked about how often I starch my fabrics, so here is my process in a little more detail. I ONLY starch once - before cutting my fabric
I do not starch again after my fabric cut or after I've started sewing the pieces together because starch can cause the fabric to shrink.
Starch washes out completely and you will still get that quilty crinkle after it has been washed. I've also used starch in wall hangings that have never been washed with no negative effects.
Trimming Blocks
If you are having trouble with squaring up the blocks - sewing with a scant 1/4" seam, and pressing seams OPEN will give you a little more wiggle room when trimming your blocks to size. This can be particularly important if you are working with a thicker fabric like wovens or flannel.
Each week I will be giving away a FQ bundle curated from my own stash! Here is this weeks bundle!
To enter in the giveaway:
– Share your progress on instagram using the hashtag #hurricationqal and #rsqpatterns. (Your Instagram account must be public or I won't be able to see it.)
– Because I want this to be a stress-free QAL, any picture of your progress counts! It doesn't have to necessarily “match” the prompt. If you don't have your fabrics yet, post the QAL graphic. If you have your fabrics, show them off so we can see what you're going to make! If you want to post more than once, go for it! All of it counts. :)
I will randomly pick one winner on Sunday night and announce it in next weeks email newsletter and in my IG stories!
Jill of J. Coterie is giving away free long arming services (up to $250) and will offer 20% off on any quilt you send in to her!
AND
Rachel of Saltwater Fabrics is giving away a $50 gift card to her shop!
If you have any questions or any issues making a block, please let me know so I can talk about it in next weeks newsletter! From here on out, we will we be making our blocks. :)
See you next Monday!
Welcome back to the Hurrication QAL!
We are starting our blocks this week and I can't wait to see them come together. If you are making the throw size quilt with me, we have 20 blocks to make and five weeks to do it. You can either make 4 blocks a week, OR make 5 blocks a week with a catch up week at the end. Either way you go, this should give you plenty of time to keep up!
If you are making a different size quilt, divide the total number of blocks needed by 5 to see how many blocks you need make each week.
Let's get started. :)
I highly recommend making a test block before diving into the rest. It can be a good way to make sure you know what you're doing and a good visual check as you make your blocks. It is also a way to test of your fabric placement and to make sure you like the flow of your block.
In order to get the best results when making these blocks, I recommend pressing creases into the E1 square so you can easily center the triangles on the square fabric.
Fold the fabric in half horizontally and use your fingers to press down on the crease. Open the square, rotate it 90 degrees and repeat the process. To be honest, I don't bother to do press a crease into the triangles, but you can also press the triangles in half to find the center point.
If you pressed a crease in the triangle, line up the two creases and pin in place. If you did not, line up the center point of the triangle with the creased line.
I repeat this process again before attaching the B triangles. Because of the way the block rotates, you will need new markers. However, I use the same marks for C and D triangles, but you can re-press if need a more obvious line.
Finger pressing works well for me, but you can also use your iron if you are wanting a deeper crease.
Chain piecing is my favorite quilting short cut.
If you are making the Modern Solids version, chain piecing is a piece of cake! Make a pile of triangles and a pile of background squares and dive in. Just be sure you are sewing the correct color in the correct orientation!
If you are making a Scrappy or Ombre version, chain piecing takes a bit more planning.
First, I make ALL 20 blocks with the A triangles. I make these one at a time so I don't accidentally mix up any of my sets. Once all 20 A triangle blocks are made, pressed, and trimmed, it's time to chain piece!
I find it easiest to work in batches of four or five (see how that worked out! ;). I will gather the remaining triangles in the colors needed next to my sewing machine. That way, I can quickly I grab the correct color and size triangle from the stack as I need them.
I also like to set up a small pressing station next to my sewing machine so I can easily press each set blocks before sewing the next step. After each round of triangles, I square them up and repeat the process until the four blocks are done. It makes the process so much faster!
In the pattern, I suggest pressing the A, B, and C triangles to the side and the E1 triangle and snowball corners open. Those last two seams will line up with the seams on other blocks so pressing them open helps to reduce bulk.
Certainly, all seams can be pressed open if you prefer to do so. Remember, when pressing open, trim the dog ears before attaching the next set of triangles.
Do not skip this step! I know it can be tempting to think it looks square enough and you really just want to move on to the next set of triangles. Don't do it! Each round of triangles makes a block that is slightly oversized and needs to be trimmed down to the appropriate size to work. Accuracy is important here since each round of triangles builds on the ones before.
When lining up my ruler, I do a quick visual check of an inner square with the ruler so I don't accidentally square the block a little wonky (see photo above). I also check to make sure I have 1/4" from the point on all sides. Double check everything again, and trim the right and top edges. Rotate the block 90 degrees and do it again!
TIP: Place washi tape on your ruler to easily see where you are supposed to trim. Place tape JUST outside of the marks. If you place the tape directly on the lines, it can be hard to see if you are covering up the fabric with the tape.
If you don't have a large square ruler (I'm using a 16.5" creative grids rulere here, I love this one and I use it every quilt I make): here are two resources that can help!
I have a blog post/video tutorial on using two rulers to square larger blocks, and Jen of PiperAutumnFabrics made a similar reel squaring her Hurrication blocks. Check them out below!
The last step in making the block is adding the snowball corners. You're in the homestretch now!
Mark your squares. I like to use hera markers or a frixon pen to draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the square. I sew my seam JUST to the right of that line.
TIP: fold the D square over and press it BEFORE trimming off the excess. It stays more square this way.
Also, save the extra triangles to make a bonus project. I'll be back later in the QAL with some ideas of what you can do with them.
TIP: Sew another line 1/2" from the first and then trim down the middle. This quickly gives you the extra HST without having to sew them later.
Each week I will be giving away a FQ bundle curated from my own stash! Here is this weeks bundle!
To enter in the giveaway:
– Share your progress on instagram using the hashtag #hurricationqal and #rsqpatterns. (Your Instagram account must be public or I won't be able to see it.)
– Because I want this to be a stress-free QAL, any picture of your progress counts! It doesn't have to necessarily “match” the prompt. If you don't have your fabrics yet, post the QAL graphic. If you have your fabrics, show them off so we can see what you're going to make! If you want to post more than once, go for it! All of it counts. :)
I will randomly pick one winner on Sunday night and announce it in next weeks email newsletter and in my IG stories!
Jill of J. Coterie is giving away free long arming services (up to $250) and will offer 20% off on any quilt you send in to her!
AND
Rachel of Saltwater Fabrics is giving away a $50 gift card to her shop!
If you have any questions or any issues making a block, please let me know so I can talk about it in next weeks newsletter! From here on out, we will we be making our blocks. :)
See you next Monday!
I'm so excited to make this quilt and share my tips with you along the way.
Here's how it's going to work: each Monday for the next 7 weeks, I'll share a blog post with the weekly focus and any tips, tricks, or tutorials for the week. Each blog post will be linked to the Hurrication QAL page (bookmark this page!). I will also send an email with a link to the blog post and the giveaway winner. Plus I will share it on my social media, so you don't miss anything!
If you are on Instagram, share your progress using the hashtag #hurricationQAL and #hurricationquilt so I can see and cheer you on! Be aware, your account must be public for me to see it.
First things first, if you don't have the pattern already, you can download the PDF here, the PRINTED version here, and download the free alternate version here.
Before we jump in, let me introduce myself really quick! My name in Julie and I am the pattern designer behind Running Stitch Quilts. I started quilting in 2014 when I bought a sewing machine on a whim and I haven't looked back since. My husband is in the military and we have lived all over, but we are currently in Michigan with our two daughters and two dogs. When I'm not quilting or wrangling kids, I'm probably running. So far, I've done one marathon and five half marathons with another coming up in October!
This week we will be focusing on choosing, prepping and cutting fabric, and getting organized.
You have a lot of options with this quilt. It can be made with yardage, half yards, or fat quarters. In addition to that, I made an alternate version that has slightly different fabric requirements. You can get more information on that here.
No matter which version of the quilt you make, the key is staying organized. To help you with that, I've linked the coloring page here. Print off as many as you need to plan your quilt!
If you are making the Modern Solids version, it can be helpful to make a swatch card to keep by your sewing machine for easy reference! Glue, tape, or stitch down your fabric in the desired placement. It is a great visual cue when sewing.
If you are making the scrappy or ombre versions, I talk more about how I keep those layouts organized below. For now, make sure you get your pieces mixed and matched or laid out in an ombre pattern.
Starching your fabric is not required if you want to skip this step. However, I like starching my fabrics because I think the stiffer fabric is easier to sew with and helps with accuracy. I like it for this pattern in particular because of the bias edges in the pattern. Bias edges are prone to stretching and distortion, so you'll need to handle them with care, but starched fabrics can help with that a bit. I have a blog post where I talk more about bias edges.
If you want to starch your fabric, do it this week, BEFORE you cut into it. Starch can cause a small bit of fabric shrinkage, so if you spray down fabric that has already been cut, you run the risk of trying to sew with pieces that are too small.
I shake out my fabric and then spray it down pretty good. I let it dry a bit, then iron out any wrinkles and creases. If I'm not cutting into it right away, I will drape it over the back of a chair to minimize putting creases back into it.
Cutting for this quilt is fairly straight forward. Please make sure you are following the correct chart and read through all of the instructions before starting!
TIP: Use a fresh rotary cutter blade (your hands and wrist will thank you!), and measure twice and cut once. ;)
If you are making the alternate version from the pattern extension: You will need to refer to the original pattern for B, C, and E1 cutting instructions. Please let me know if you have any questions!
For ALL versions: Don't forget to cut the appropriate pieces diagonally into triangles. Refer to your pattern or pattern extension for specifics.
When you are finished cutting, plan the scrappy or ombre layout.
TIP: If you are making a scrappy quilt, you need four different fabrics per block. When mixing and matching (or planning the ombre) only work with the small A triangles. This way you aren't handling the bigger triangles more than necessary.
This is how I planned the ombre layout for my quilt!
If you are wanting to make the ombre scrappy version, this blog post goes into more detail about how I planned that quilt. It also has a color key you can refer to that can get you started. Depending on your fabric, you will probably need to make some tweaks, but it is a good starting place!
Each week I will be giving away a FQ bundle curated from my own stash! Here is this weeks bundle!
To enter in the giveaway:
– Share your progress on instagram using the hashtag #hurricationqal and #rsqpatterns. (Your Instagram account must be public or I won't be able to see it.)
– Because I want this to be a stress-free QAL, any picture of your progress counts! It doesn't have to necessarily “match” the prompt. If you don't have your fabrics yet, post the QAL graphic. If you have your fabrics, show them off so we can see what you're going to make! If you want to post more than once, go for it! All of it counts. :)
I will randomly pick one winner on Sunday night and announce it in next weeks email newsletter and in my IG stories!
Jill of J. Coterie is giving away free long arming services (up to $250) and Rachel of Saltwater Fabrics is giving away a $50 gift card to her shop!
We are jumping right into block assembly next week. I'll be sharing my tips for chain piecing and trimming the blocks at each step.
If you have any questions, drop them in the comment box below!
See you next Monday!
For a newbie quilter (or even a seasoned one), the idea of bias edges can be scary. They stretch! They can distort! They can make your quilt top wavy! None of those things sound fun, especially when you are spending blood, sweat, and tears (and money) on making a quilt.
But don't worry, several of my patterns have bias edges so I'm going to share what works for me when I make those kinds of quilts.
First thing first. What is a bias edge?
Here is the simplest way I can explain it (if you want to get technical, here is a good blog post). Fabric has a lengthwise grain and a crosswise grain that goes perpendicular. This makes up the straight grain of the fabric. If you cut the fabric selvage to selvage, that is a straight grain cut. If you cut the fabric diagonally across the straight grain (like you would to make a triangle), that is the bias edge.
The bias edge has considerably more stretch than the straight grain. Which is great if you're making garments, bags, things with curves, etc. If you're making a quilt, it can be...fussy.
1. STARCH your fabric. My friend, starch is your best friend here. Whether you prewash your fabrics or not (I don't, for the record), starch them if you're going to be working with bias edges. Starch adds stiffness and structure to the fabric making it easier to work with.
My process: I lay down a shower curtain liner, place the fabric top and spray generously with starch. I use the the cheap stuff you can find in the grocery store, but there is quilting specific starch like Best Press that I have heard good things about.
Once the fabric has dried, iron with a hot iron over a pressing board (which gives me better results than an ironing board).
Sometimes, if I'm working with wovens (like Warp and Weft from Ruby Star Society) I'll repeat the process twice, but that is not usually necessary.
2. PRESS don't iron. This is an important one.
Whether you press your seams open or to the side, make sure you are pressing (setting the iron down on the seam and then lifting it up) instead of ironing (dragging the iron across the seams). The heat plus pressure from the iron can pull the fabric slightly out of shape.
3. Handle pieces GENTLY. The more we handle the bias cut pieces, the more distorted they can become, and it's not always obvious until trying to sew it to another piece.
If possible, I'll wait and cut the triangles (like for Deltille or Hurrication) until I've reached the step where I need to sew them. If I do cut everything at once (because I want to take a picture for Instagram), I'll leave them stacked on my cutting table until I'm ready to use them. I avoid playing with them and moving them around for pictures as much as I can.
When sewing, I am careful not to push or pull the fabric through the machine and just guide it while the feed dogs to the work. Honestly, this is true for any piecing, but a good reminder for working with bias edges.
4. PIN as needed. Full disclosure, I rarely use pins.
That being said, I will always use pins when sewing long seams with bias edges to keep things from shifting and pulling as the weight of the quilt increases. If you have the space, larger work surfaces to the left of your sewing machine and behind your sewing machine can help hold the weight of the quilt as it's going through the machine.
That's it! Bias edges really aren't as intimidating as they are made out to be. It just takes a little more care and a little practice, and you'll be just fine!
Do you ever have that lightening bolt moment where an idea pops into your head and you have to write it down/sketch it out/mock it up RIGHT. THAT. MINUTE.
I was vacuuming the living room when I thought "what would Hurrication look like if I flipped the background and the corner fabrics?" I didn't even finish vacuuming the room before I opened my computer and started mocking it up. To say I loved the result is an understatement.
At that point, I had already sent the original Hurrication pattern to the printer so it was too late to write this version into it. But I couldn't let it go. I had to make it.
Luckily for you, I wrote up this PDF so you can make it too (you will need the Hurrication pattern as this is only a supplement)!!
I hope you love it as much as I do. :)
Get a copy of the Hurrication Expansion PDF here!
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Want a cute Hurrication sticker? You can get yourself one here! |
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Planning the ombre/color shift in the Hurrication pattern took a little extra brain power due to the way the fabrics rotate within each block. But, let me tell you, the end result was 100% worth it. This might be my favorite quilt I've ever made.
I'm going to tell you exactly how I planned my quilt so that you can make something similar (you will need the pattern to actually make this quilt, you can get it here)!
First, I laid out the D squares (that will become the corners of the blocks) in sets of four to plan the color shift. Once all of the blocks were laid out, I moved and rearranged to ensure that each block had a different combination of fabrics while still maintaining the color shift. Last thing I did in this step was to label each set of squares that represented one block. Also, I left these blocks in place while I was making each block. One, to help ensure I was sewing the right pieces together, and two, to make sure I liked the color shift as I kept looking at it.
Then, I started sewing my blocks together following the block assembly on page 4. BEFORE I added the background fabric, I reevaluated the color shift. At this stage, it was still looking pretty good. I moved or rotated one or two blocks to keep the color shift smooth.
After adding the background fabric, I evaluated the color shift for the last time. Because of the way the fabric rotate after adding the background fabric, this step is when I made the most changes. I swapped one or two blocks, but I spent some time rotating (and then rotating them back) to find the most visually appealing layout.
During this step, I take a picture of every single layout. Even with the blocks up on my design wall, sometimes it is easier to see in a picture. I will also make the picture black and white to see if there are any glaring errors in the color shift.
The last step is to add the D square corners. In the pattern, I have the snowballed corner in the opposite corner of the same color B triangle in the block. However, in this ombre version, I put the D square in the SAME corner as the B triangle. This change helped keep the flow.
That's it! A little bit of planning up front, and working block by block instead of chain piecing was worth all the effort after seeing the result. I love this quilt so much!
I made this color key for my quilt for you to use as a starting point. Depending on your color flow and the fabrics you have, you will probably need to tweak things, but you can use this to get going!
You can get the Hurrication pattern in PDF or PAPER pattern in my shop!
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Want a cute Hurrication sticker? You can get yourself one here! |
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If you've been around for a while, you might remember I had an obsession with the original Warp and Weft line by Alexia Abegg for Ruby Star Society. I am hoarding FQ bundles of that line and the second warp and weft collection she came out with. I was lucky enough to get my hands on some of the newest collection, Warp and Weft Honey, several months ago so I made a Chevron Points with it.
I wanted to show an example of the split chevron style with prints instead of solids and one without doing an ombre/gradient. These fabrics fit the bill for that perfectly!
With a pattern like this, working with directional prints like stripes can be tricky, so I took extra time to line up at many of the stripes as I could, and I think that extra effort was 100% worth it. It didn't workout in every case, but when it did it looks good!
I wanted to use as much of the fabrics as I could, so I took the leftover pieces I had and pieced the backing. It is my favorite things about this quilt because it is extra soft and squishy having woven fabrics on the front and back. It was a little tricker to baste and quilt due to the stretchiness of woven fabrics and I ended up with a few puckers on the back. Honestly, I'm okay with it that way. They won't be noticeable once I wash the quilt and start using it!
I used a black metallic stripe for the binding. You can't go wrong with stripes for the binding. It's my favorite way to finish off a quilt top!
I loved making this one. It is definitely going to be a favorite in our quilt rotation!
Fran of Cotton and Joy in one of my favorite quilty friends. When I found out she was working with Riley Blake Designs on her first fabric collection, I immediately started thinking about what I would make with them.
I initially planned on making a Desert Charm quilt, but then I wrote the Chevron Points pattern. The Modern Solids version of Chevron Points is perfect for showing off prints - and I really wanted to show off the prints!
For this baby quilt, I picked four of my favorite prints from the Daybreak collection plus one extra for the accent. The little bees are my favorite. I smile every time I see them!
I quilted my standard straight lines about 3/4" apart. This has become my go-to for when I have to quilt something myself. It's easy and quick.
Because I didn't use all of the prints I originally selected, I pieced them together for the backing. Making pieced backings is my new favorite obsession. It helps keeps the cost down since you aren't buying extra yardage for the back, it helps keep my fabric stash to a minimum since I don't like storing fabric, and it's just fun. :)
I went with my favorite binding option - stripes!
I really really love everything about this quilt. :)
This pattern has been a long time coming and it is finally available in PDF or PRINTED formats in my shop!
I originally designed and wrote this pattern for Make Modern Magazine back in July 2021. In order to release this one as a stand alone pattern, I made a tiny design tweak, added two more sizes, and one design variation. I'm thrilled with the end result!
For my new cover sample, I went with a moody purple/teal/blue range. I'm really loving this color combo right now. I used Cotton Couture solids from Michael Miller Fabrics in: Eggplant, Venus, Mauve, Iris, Powder Blue, Glass, Ocean, Teal, Cadet, Slate, Wedgewood, and Ice Blue. I used Soft White for the background. (I'm selling these fabrics in a kit here if you want to make the same one!)
My favorite thing about this pattern is the combination of light and dark tones of the same color in each column. I think it gives it a fun, playful look. However, sometimes you just want to show off the prints a bit more. So I added a design variation that has the whole chevron one color. Both designs are awesome if I do say so myself!
As usual, I sent my cover sample to Jill of J.Coterie quilting for long arm quilting. She chose a geometric panto that complements the chevrons nicely. I always think she does a great job picking a quilting design and scale for the quilt!
This one is backed and bound with the middle blue color.
Now for the pictures!
DOWNLOAD YOUR FREE PATTERN HERE!
The Scrappy Valley Quilt pattern came from my desire to actually use my fabric scraps. As long as I've been quilting, I've cut my scraps into commonly used sizes and stored them sorted by color in small plastic bins. (Read more about my scrap storage method here!)
After about 6 or 7 years of this, my scrap bins started to get hard to close. I started to realize that at some point I would need to start using the scraps I'd been saving. I set out to put together a block that used the already precut sizes I've been collecting. I wanted to use as many different sizes as I could.
Scrappy Valley was named after one of my most popular patterns, Mountain Valley, because the blocks follow the same layout. The pattern works best when the same color group is used for each section of the block, but the free pattern include yardage if you prefer to make it that way!
Evenflow is available now in my shop in PDF and Printed pattern formats!
Truthfully, Evenflow is one of those patterns that I never meant to write because it is a derivative of another pattern of mine, Rivermill.
If you recall, last year I was a brand ambassador for Michael Miller Fabrics. One of the things Michael Miller does really well is large scale prints. I really wanted to show off this one print they sent, so I quickly drafted an extra large Rivermill block and made this quilt. I honestly thought that would be the end of it.
But then, I had several people ask me for the fabric requirements. I told them to give me a few days, and I write up a quick pattern extension and get back to them. It hit me that I used a completely different HST construction method. My quick pattern extension was turning into a full on pattern.
I sat on it for a while unsure if I wanted to commit to writing this pattern or moving on to one I have saved in my drafts. Quilters continued to ask for it, so here we are! I added a few sizes and made one tiny design change to spruce it up.
I love love love the end result. It makes such a big impact! I stick to solids on my cover quilts, but this pattern is so fun in prints. It shows them off really nicely.
I used Art Gallery Fabrics Pure Solids for my cover quilt in Terracotta Tile, Miami Sunset, Sweet Macadamia, and Snow (background). I don't typically gravitate towards coral/burnt orange type colors, but these spoke to me. I love the end result!
One of the perks of a big block pattern like Evenflow is that is comes together SO FAST. I can cut and piece the entire top in 2-3 hours depending on how many interruptions my kids make. I was done so quickly and still several weeks out from my pattern release. Instead of moving my pattern release up, I chose to make the back extra special.
I made the original Rivermill for the back! I want to make all of my quilts double sided now. It makes sense. I make A LOT of quilts. I have a stack piled up in the closet waiting to give away or to sell. This way, I could still make all the quilts, but I would have less quilts in a pile at the end. Plus, on a bed, you could just flip it over when you want to change things up. #teamdoublesidedquilts
(Both Evenflow and Rivermill are available in my shop!)
Now for pictures!
In my latest pattern, Evenflow, I am working with larger blocks so I thought it would be helpful to give a quick tutorial on how to trim these blocks when you don't have a giant ruler. Though, I use my 16.5" x 16.5" ruler ALL the time. If you are in the market for a ruler to add to your collection, I would definitely consider this one.
Anyway, here is a quick rundown of how you can use two smaller rulers to square a larger block. In my HST example, I am using a 6.5" x 24" ruler and a 9.5" x 9.5" square ruler (affiliate links).
Last thing before we get to the tutorial, if you want to see this in action, check out my video here!
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I want to square my HST to 14.5" x 14.5". It is currently about 15" x 15".
First, some math. I want to square my block to 14.5". My long ruler is 6.5" wide. So, since 14.5 - 6.5 = 8, I want to make sure I'm following the 8" marks on my square ruler.
Line up the diagonal mark on the ruler with the diagonal HST seam. Make sure there is room to trim to the left and bottom of the 8" ruler marks.
Once the square ruler is lined up, place the longer ruler next to it. Ensure everything is straight, and trim that first edge.
Rotate the block 180 degrees so that the previously trimmed edge is now on the left. Line up the 8" mark and the diagonal seam again and trim.
Rotate block so that trimmed edges are the top and bottom. Line up longer ruler along the bottom edge ensuring the corner of the diagonal seam lines up with the edge of the ruler. Trim that edge.
Rotate block one final time to trim the last side. Line up the 8" marks on the left and bottom edges.
Place long ruler next to the square ruler and ensure everything is straight before trimming that last edge. The corner of the diagonal seam should be lined up with the edge of the ruler.
Sit back and admire your accurately squared HST!
